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| Factory
engines installed in Cabriolets |
|
Engine
Code |
Install
Period |
Locations |
Engine Type |
Catalyzed/
OXS |
Engine
Size |
kW |
Compress.
Ratio |
Horsepower |
Top
Speed |
Lifter
Type* |
Min.
Fuel
Octane |
MPG or
L/100km*
|
|
DX |
8/82 -
7/92 |
 |
CIS,
K-Jetronic |
No/No |
1.8L |
82 |
10:1 |
112 @
5800 rpm |
107mph |
Solid
Hydraulic |
98RON |
8.7L |
|
EG |
1/79
- 7/82 |
|
CIS,
K-Jetronic |
No/No |
1.6L |
81 |
9.5:1 |
110 @
6100 rpm |
106mph |
Solid |
98RON |
|
|
EJ |
8/79
- 7/80 |
 |
CIS,
K-Jetronic |
Yes/Yes |
1.6L |
55 |
8.2:1 |
76 @
5500 rpm |
93mph |
Solid |
91RON |
|
|
EM |
8/79
- 7/83 |
 |
Carburetor |
No/No |
1.6L |
55 |
|
75 @
5000 rpm |
|
Solid |
91RON |
|
|
EN |
8/80
- 7/83 |
|
CIS,
K-Jetronic |
Yes/Yes |
1.7L |
57 |
8.2:1 |
78 @
5000 rpm |
|
Solid |
91RON |
|
|
EW |
8/83
- 7/92 |
|
Carburetor
2E2 |
No/No |
1.6L |
55 |
9:1 |
75 @
5000 rpm |
96mph |
Solid
Hydraulic |
91RON |
7.8L |
|
EX |
8/83
- 7/93 |
|
Carburetor
2E2 |
No/No |
1.8L |
66 |
10:1 |
90 @
5200 rpm |
102mph |
Solid
Hydraulic |
98RON |
8.5L |
|
FA |
1/79
- 7/79 |
|
Carburetor
34-PICT-5 |
No/No |
1.1L |
37 |
8:1 |
50 @
6000 rpm |
|
Solid |
91RON |
|
|
FN |
1/79
- 7/79 |
|
Carburetor |
No/No |
1.6L |
55 |
|
|
|
Solid |
91RON |
|
|
FV |
1/79
- 7/79 |
|
Carburetor
34-PICT-5 |
No/No |
1.6L |
48 |
7:1 |
65 @
5600 rpm |
|
Solid |
91RON |
|
|
GG |
8/79 - 7/83 |
|
Carburetor
31-PICT-6 or 7 |
No/No |
1.1L |
37 |
9.1:1 |
50 @
6000 rpm |
|
Solid |
91RON |
|
|
GH |
8/79 - 7/80 |
|
Carburetor |
No/No |
1.5L |
48 |
|
65 |
|
Solid |
91RON |
|
|
HN |
8/83
- 7/86 |
|
Carburetor |
No/No |
1.6L |
55 |
|
75 |
|
Solid |
91RON |
|
|
HK |
8/83 - 7/86 |
|
Carburetor
2E2,
2E3 |
No/No |
1.3L |
40 |
9.5:1 |
55 @
5400 rpm |
|
Solid |
91RON |
|
|
JB |
1/79
- 7/83 |
|
Carburetor
34-PICT-5 |
No/No |
1.5L |
51 |
8.2:1 |
70 @
5600 rpm |
93mph |
Solid |
91RON |
8.6L |
|
JH |
8/83
- 7/93 |
|
CIS,
K-Jetronic |
Yes/Yes |
1.8L |
70 |
8.5:1 |
95 @
5500 rpm |
103mph |
Solid
Hydraulic |
91RON |
9.9L |
|
JJ |
8/82
- 7/83 |
|
CIS,
K-Jetronic |
No/No |
1.8L |
82 |
10:1 |
112 @
5800 rpm |
|
Solid |
98RON |
|
|
KT |
8/83
- 7/89 |
 |
CIS,
K-Jetronic |
No/No |
1.8L |
82 |
10:1 |
112 @
5800 rpm |
116mph |
Solid |
98RON |
|
|
RE |
4/86
- 7/90 |
|
Carburetor
2E2 |
Yes/No |
1.6L |
53 |
9:1 |
98 @
5400 rpm |
166kph |
Solid
Hydraulic |
91RON |
9.6L |
|
2H |
8/89
- 7/93 |
|
Digifant |
Yes/Yes |
1.8L |
72 |
10:1 |
98 @
5400 rpm |
102mph |
Hydraulic |
91RON |
9.6L |
*NOTES:
- All engines are 4-cylinder, 8-valve,
transverse-mounted, SOHC, non-interference engines.
- All engines have a firing order of
1-3-4-2
.
- From 1984 to 1989, Cabriolets in North
America received the same 1.8L, CIS fuel-injected engine as the Rabbit
GTI.
- Solid/mechanical lifters were
installed up to 1987; hydraulic lifters installed from 1988 onward.
The difference between the two: Solid lifter cylinder heads have 5
camshaft bearing caps, the hydro lifter cylinder heads have 4.
NOTE: Hydro lifters cannot be used in a solid lifter
head and vice versa. Know what you have before buying parts!
- Fuel mileage for European engines is
based on a 5-speed transmission and a highway speed of 120km/h with the
roof closed; North American fuel mileages listed are the EPA's original
estimates.
- Please see the Specifications Page for
additional engine info and for engine/transmission cross-reference specs
-
Click here for camshaft specs.
- How your engine works:
http://www.familycar.com/Engine.htm
-
= USA & Canada;
= Europe (including UK)
|
|
Engine
code location |
|
The engine code is located at
the top of the block, at cylinder #3, just below the spark plug. The engine
below is stamped "JH".
|
|
Definition
of "transverse" and "non-interference" |
| Cabriolets have
transversely-mounted engines. This means that the engine has been rotated
90° from how an engine normally sits in the engine compartment; i.e. what is
usually the front of an engine (where the belts are) is on the right side of
the engine compartment.
Furthermore, these engines, in stock form,
are known as non-interference engines. This
means that the timing belt can break while the engine is running and not
cause serious damage to the valves and pistons, provided that the engine is
not running at a very high rpm when the belt breaks.
The right/left sides of a car are based upon
you sitting in the car, facing the engine compartment. Therefore, the right
side of the car = passenger side; the left side of the car = driver's side
(those in RHD countries, the "driver's" and "passenger" sides would be
reversed). |
|
Engine firing order
& operating cycle |
| The firing order on all
4-cylinder, 8-valve Volkswagen engines is, as mentioned above in the tables:
1-3-4-2. The rotor spins clockwise from the #1 cylinder wire,
closest to the engine block, around to the #2 cylinder wire.
(If you happen to have swapped in a 9A
engine, the firing order is still 1-3-4-2, but the rotation is
counterclockwise from the #1 cylinder wire, closest to the engine block,
around to the #2 cylinder wire.)
Volkswagen's 4-cylinder engines operate in a
4-stroke manner:
|
|
Stroke 1:
Induction |
Stroke 2:
Compression |
Stroke 3:
Combustion |
Stroke 4:
Exhaust |
|
Intake valve |
open |
closed |
closed |
closed |
|
Exhaust valve |
closed |
closed |
closed |
open |
|
Piston travel |
downward |
upward |
upward |
upward |
|
Combustion |
none |
initial phase |
combustion/post-combustion phase |
none |
|
CIS: Because CIS is a
continuous injection system, fuel is built up at the intake
valve until the valve opens allowing fuel to enter the combustion
chamber.
Digifant: Digifant is a
pulsed injection system; therefore, fuel does not enter the
combustion chamber until just before the intake valve opens.
Each valve opens only once per rotation
of the engine and all valves are closed twice per rotation. |
|
| Diagnostic system
& check engine light |
|
Year |
Diagnostic System |
|
1980-1989, CIS |
none |
|
1990-1993, Digifant II |
none |
|
1991-1993 California Digifant I |
OBD I |
NOTE: Only Cabriolets equipped with
Digifant I engines have the OBD I diagnostic port; furthermore, an OBD II
diagnostic tool cannot be used
to pull fault codes from an OBD I system unless it has the ability to
connect to and pull codes from an OBD I system!
The check engine light usually means that there
is a fault in the emissions system. Plug an OBD I scan tool (or use a bypass
method -- coming soon) into the diagnostic port (under the shift boot), pull
the stored fault codes and cross reference them with the list of fault codes
below
and possible causes/remedies.
|
Code |
Fault |
Cause |
|
4444 |
No faults
recorded |
|
|
2212 |
Throttle valve potentiometer |
Defective potentiometer or wiring |
|
2312 |
Coolant
temperature sensor |
Defective coolant temperature sensor or wiring |
|
2322 |
Intake air
temperature sensor |
Defective intake air temperature sensor or wiring |
|
2342 |
Oxygen sensor |
Defective oxygen sensor or wiring |
|
2141 |
Knock sensor |
Defective knock sensor or wiring. Control unit not recognizing
knock signal |
|
2341 |
Oxygen sensor
control exceeded |
Air
intake system leaks, CO adjustment incorrect, sensor wiring |
|
2323 |
Air flow sensor
potentiometer |
Defective air flow sensor potentiometer or wiring |
|
4411 |
Fuel injector |
Check fuel injector wiring |
|
1111 |
Control unit |
Defective control unit |
|
0000 |
End of fault
code sequence |
|
|
|
Motor
mounts |
|
Types:
Rubber vs. poly: Rubber mounts are OEM and cushion, or isolate, the engine
vibrations. Poly mounts are aftermarket and have a tendency to allow
the engine vibrations to pass through to the chassis (i.e., you will feel
the vibrations inside the car).
Symptoms of mount failure:
When
motor mounts fail, the engine and transmission will rock causing very
noticeable vibrations inside the passenger compartment (especially at idle),
shifting issues, exhaust damage, and more.
|
|
V-belts |
|
1984-1993 |
|
No A/C, no P/S |
9.5ux950mm |
Alternator |
026
903 137 C |
|
No A/C, with P/S |
9.5x730mm
11.2x866mm |
P/S to water pump
Alternator |
026 145 271
054
903 137 |
|
With A/C, with P/S |
9.5x630mm
12.5x947mm
9.5x730mm |
Alternator to A/C
A/C to water pump
P/S to water pump |
027 903 137
068 260 849 G
026 145 271 |
|
With A/C, no P/S |
9.5x630mm
12.5x947mm |
Alternator to A/C
A/C to water pump |
027 903 137
068 260 849 G |
|
Timing belt |
-- |
-- |
056109119A |
|
|
1980-1983 |
|
No A/C, no P/S |
9.5x950mm |
Alternator |
026 903 137 C |
|
No A/C, with P/S |
9.5x730mm
11.2x866mm |
P/S to water pump
Alternator |
026 145 271
054 903 137 |
|
With A/C, with P/S |
9.5x825mm
12.5x1030mm
9.5x825mm |
Alternator to A/C
Alternator
P/S to water pump |
068 903 137 AQ
055 260 849 E
175 903 137 D |
|
With A/C, no P/S |
9.5x850mm
12.5x1025mm |
Alternator to A/C
A/C to water pump |
055 903 137
055 260 849 E |
|
Timing belt |
-- |
-- |
056109119A
|
|
|
|
Gaskets |
|
Valve Cover |
Oil Pan |
Other |
|
It's wise to upgrade your 3-piece valve
cover gasket to a 1-piece rubber gasket: You will need to install
shoulderless studs, but no gasket sealant is required. The rubber
gasket is
re-usable should the valve cover need to be removed, and rubber gaskets
are more leak-proof.
Order the upgrade kit from
German Auto Parts.
NOTE: Late-year 1993 Cabriolets came stock
with the one-piece rubber gasket and shoulderless studs.
|
It's wise to upgrade your cork valve cover
gasket to a rubber one. No gasket sealant is required and rubber
gaskets are more leak-proof.
The rubber gasket upgrade is available at
German Auto Parts. |
 |
|
|
Oil and oil filters |
|
Oil |
Oil filter |
Oil dipstick |
|
This can be quite controversial; positive
and negative comments are said about all oil types and brands. Most
agreed upon, however, is using 20W-50 in the warm summer months and
10W-30 in the cold winter months, or 15W-40 year-round (those in year-round warm climates can use
20W50 year-round).
4.0L with filter change
(fill the filter with oil before installing)
3.5L without filter change
The Oil Bible
Drain plug washer part #N0138492 |
Bosch (part #3421)*
K&N (part #2005; $13)
Mahle (part #OC 47; $5)
Mann (part #W719/5; $5)
Mobil-1 (part # M1-205; $12)
STP (part #S2870A)
Volkswagen (part #056115561G; $7)
Wix/NAPA (part #51088)
Fram*
* See the
notes below. |
1980-1988: the difference between the min.
and max. marks is 1.0 L (1.1 US qt.)
1989-1993: the difference between the min. and max. marks is 0.75 L
(0.79 US qt.) |
|
Notes:
1) Contrary to common belief, all oil filters
listed above, including Fram, have anti-drainback valves. Anti-drainback
valves are built into the filters to prevent the filters from emptying
upon engine shut-off when the filters are installed on engines requiring
them to be "upside down". Volkswagen's 1.5L, 1.6L, 1.7L and 1.8L
engines installed in Cabriolets do not require
this anti-drainback valve because the filters are spun on "right side
up", thereby allowing gravity to retain oil in the filter (some
proclaim that oil is siphoned out of the filter upon shut-off; this is
true only for diesel engines). The
important valve that Cabriolet engines require is the bypass, or relief
valve. Should there be a restriction in the filter due to cold
weather, contaminants, or thick oil, the low oil pressure present in the
filter opens the relief valve allowing unfiltered oil to enter the oil
passages in order to keep the engine lubricated (unfiltered oil is
better than no oil at all). All filters listed above, now
excluding Bosch, have this valve; Fram, however, uses a rubber diaphragm
(among other cheap parts), rather than a spring-loaded seal like the
others do, hence it
not being recommended.
2) Upon
a recent trip to Checker Auto Parts, it was discovered that Bosch
filters sold at Checker (and possibly elsewhere) have no valve
whatsoever inside them. As a result, Bosch filters are no longer
recommended by this web site. You are actually better off
installing a Fram! |
|
| Air
filters |
|
Fuel Injection |
Carburetor |
|
Filter |
Part # |
Approx. Cost |
Filter |
Part # |
Notes |
|
OEM |
049 133 843 |
$10-15 |
OEM |
055 129 620 A |
1.5L, 1.6L, 1.8L |
|
Mahle |
LX 259 |
$10 |
OEM |
052 129 620 |
1.1L, 1.3L |
|
Fram |
CA 3660 |
$7-10 |
|
|
|
|
K&N |
33-2002
99-5000
(recharge kit) |
$50, but is permanent & requires
maintenance; is said to increase horsepower slightly |
|
|
|
|
| Oil
on the air filter |
|
Oil on the air filter is commonly referred to
as "compression blow-by". Oil is getting into the air
passages via the main vent hose connected to the valve cover. Some oil
on the filter is normal; an air filter coated with oil is sometimes an
indication of worn rings and cylinder walls. To reduce the amount of blow-by,
clean the valve cover (including the vent screen) and air hoses and install
a
camshaft cover. |
|
Rabbit performance parts |
|
Rabbit camshaft: up to '87s: Yes;
'88+: No (use a cam
intended for an A3 8v ABA). The exhaust
from the cat-back
is slightly different, too.
Cam gear: same
Valve springs and retainers: same
Malifold and downpipe: same
Information courtesy of
"-vertigo-" of VWvortex.com |
Upgrades to CIS
Cabriolets: same
Lower airbox and filter: same
Throttle body: same
Turbo / supercharger kit: same
Clutch: same |
Tranny: same (well, close enough)
Shifter linkage: same
Brakes: same (again, close enough)
Strut bars: same
Engine mounts: same
|
|
| Engine vacuum
line diagrams |
|
1980
CIS with EGR |
1980-1983
CIS |
1984-1987
CIS |
1987-1989
CIS |
1990-1993
Digifant |
Carburetor
2E2 |
Cruise
Control |
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
NOTES:
- 1980 Rabbit Convertibles
with EGR systems, follow the 1980 diagram; 1980 Rabbit
Convertibles with OXS systems, follow the 1980-1983 diagram.
- 1987 Cabriolets with
VINs 21197 and higher, use the 1987-1989 diagram.
|
|
To find vacuum leaks: Use a
nonflammable carb cleaner and slowly spray the vacuum hoses/tubes
one at a time while the engine is running at idle. When the
engine stumbles, you've found the leak. If a leak is found, do
yourself and the car a favor and replace all of the rubber vacuum
lines... preventative maintenance! In addition to the vacuum
lines, vacuum leaks can also occur at the following locations:
-
the idle adjustment
screw (rubber O-ring disintegrates over time).
-
the fuel injectors
(rubber O-rings crack and/or disintegrate over time).
-
the oil dipstick
tube (the dipstick is not seated properly and/or the dipstick
funnel is broken or missing).
Vacuum readings:
-
20" Hg at idle,
manifold
-
0" Hg at idle,
distributor
-
10" Hg above idle,
manifold & distributor
Vacuum line information:
|
Description |
Inside Diameter |
Outside Diameter |
Length |
VW
Part No. |
| Plastic tube |
-- |
4mm |
varies by
car |
N 020 139 1 |
| Rubber connection
hose |
5mm |
-- |
varies by
car |
N 020 291 1 |
|
No need to
pay exorbitant prices for vacuum line at the VW dealer
(unless you need/want OEM lines); your local auto parts
stores carry vacuum lines. |
|
|
|
IAT (intake air temp) sensors |
|
CIS |
Digifant |
|
Does
not have one! |
The IAT is located inside the mass-airflow
sensor (MAF) on top of the air box. |
|
This question
is often asked by those who have bought, or are looking to buy, a
performance chip. CIS engines are fuel injected mechanically and,
therefore, do not have the electronic controls that Digifant engines
have. Buying a performance chip for your CIS-equipped Cabriolet is a
waste of money, and if it somehow gets installed on a CIS engine, will
do much more harm than good. You simply cannot chip a CIS engine!
Digifant engines, however, can be chipped to gain several hp's (Advanced
Motorsport makes the best one for the Digifant engines). CIS owners
who want to increase hp's need to go about it mechanically, not
electronically, by upgrading the exhaust
manifold, downpipe, cat, cat-back, cold air intake (with K&N air
filter), cam and cam gear, and installing a larger throttle body (click
here for further discussion). |
|
|
Adding a cold-air
intake |
You can add a cold-air
intake, but it depends on
the type of intake you intend to install. The cone-shaped filter-style
intakes, for example, that sit inside the engine bay just off of the fuel
distributor are
not cold-air intakes.
Instead, they suck in the heat produced by your car's engine. The same can
be said for "Swiss-cheesing" the stock air box. A proper cold-air intake
for these cars is routed in such a way that outside air can be drawn in,
much like the stock configuration. In fact, you can modify the stock set-up
to allow for the intake of more ambient air than the stock set-up provides;
see the links on the How-To page. |
|
Engine
noises |
|
Noise Type |
Sound |
Problem |
Remedy |
| Knocking |
Rapid, multiple knocks in rapid
succession that have a high pitch; occurs only when the car is being
driven at road speed and a sudden load is applied to the engine
(extra fuel is sent to the pistons). |
Pre-ignition. Fuel is
igniting before the spark plug sparks due to carbon build-up in the
cylinder head. The valves are being forced to move in the wrong
direction at the wrong time, which is damaging the pistons. |
Switch to premium fuel for 6
months; after 6 months, switch back. If the knock continues,
see your mechanic; head work will need to be performed. |
| Knocking |
Deeper, slower, more rhythmic sound
than pre-ignition knock. This sound is heard immediately upon
beginning to drive and varies with engine RPM. |
Rod and/or bearing wear (naturally
with age of the engine, or prematurely). The internal space between
the bearings has widen to the point that oil no longer completely
fills that space. |
Do not drive the car if this sound
is heard! Have the car towed to your favorite repair shop. |
| Clicking |
Lighter sound than a knock, but
also varies with engine RPM; can be heard at idle. |
Faulty lifters and/or debris. |
Sometimes debris frees itself and
is flushed into the oil filter; replace the oil and filter. If
this doesn't solve the problem, one or more lifters will need
replacing. |
| Squeak/squeal/chirp |
High-pitched squeal; your car
sounds like a pissed-off pig. |
Belts are worn/loose/slipped/wet. A
belt tensioner is faulty/worn. A belt pulley is misaligned.
In some instances a faulty water pump will chirp. |
Replace worn belts; tighten loose
belts; realign slipped belts. Replace belt tensioners.
Replace/realign belt pullies. |
| Groan |
A deep, rhythmic groan or growl. |
The water pump is dying. |
Replace the water pump (and
thermostat and coolant while you're at it). |
|
|
Symptoms of head
gasket
failure |
|
Early warning signs |
Terminal symptoms |
-
Oil in the coolant (brownish coolant and/or
oil sludge in the coolant reservoir)
-
Coolant in the oil (produces a milky-like
substance seen on the underside of the oil cap and in the oil in
general)
-
Abnormal/unexplained loss of coolant
-
Overheating (sometimes intermittent)
-
Oil leak(s) around where the engine block
mates with the cylinder head
|
-
Extremely high temperature readings
(coolant temp gauge jumps to the right, then drops to normal*)
-
A long trail of steam out of the exhaust
pipe (coolant is entering the cylinders); sweet (not in a good way)
smelling exhaust
-
Oil will be converted to a substance
resembling milky coffee
-
Over-pressurized cooling system causing
hoses to burst and/or radiator/tank caps to blow off/leak
|
|
*The temperature will jump to "hot" when a
pocket of super-hot steam envelops the gauge sending unit; when the
gauge drops to normal that pocket of steam has been chased away by the
coolant. This can also indicate a cracked cylinder head as well as
a failed head gasket. One good reason to have this gauge: With
just an "idiot light" for the coolant temperature like modern cars have,
you'd never see this warning sign and by the time that red "idiot light"
blinks, it'd be too late.
If early warning signs are leading you to
suspect impending head gasket failure, have a repair shop conduct tests
(or do the DIY test below)
on the cooling system to verify possible head gasket failure (they'll
check, in part, to see if combustion gasses are leaking into the cooling
system which cause the system to over-pressurize). Try not to allow the
head gasket to blow completely or the cylinder head could become warped,
among other internal damage.
DIY test: With the engine
cold, attach a latex glove to the coolant expansion tank fill hole
(early Cabriolets will use the radiator fill hole). Leave the cap
off and run the engine for a minute.
If the glove inflates, you've most likely got a leaking/blown head
gasket (have a professional verify your findings). |
|
|
Symptoms of
piston ring & valve stem wear |
|
If the spark plugs are continuously getting
fouled, chances are that oil is leaking into the cylinders, which indicates
possible piston ring and/or valve stem wear. |
|
Pre-heat
hose |
|
The pre-heat hose runs from the air box over to
a flange on the exhaust manifold. If your car is missing this hose,
it's not a problem unless you live in a cold climate. |
|
Cleaning
the engine bay |
A clean engine is a happy engine! Why?
A dirty engine generally runs hotter than a clean one. Therefore,
keeping your engine bay and the engine itself clean should be part of your
regular maintenance. Additionally, keeping the underside of the hood
tidy allows for quicker, easier leak detection (and your mechanics
appreciate working on a clean engine!). With a little work, your
engine can look like this:
If you don't want it professionally cleaned up,
you can do it yourself. Using a combination of a steamer, a degreaser such
as Simple Green®
and a high-pressure washer along with a sponge, brush, scraper, toothbrush and/or
towel should do the job with lots of muscle power. Be sure to cover the
electric and electronic components/connections with plastic bags before beginning.
Professional detailers recommend running the engine up to operating
temperature before beginning; this softens up years-old hardened grease,
oil, etc. When working on a hot engine; a hot engine bay is no
different than an oven... if you're not careful, you'll get burned!
Speaking
of ovens: It's advised by professional detailers to not use oven
cleaner to rid the engine of caked-on fluids. Most oven cleaners are
lye-based products made to break down organic material in your oven; these
products will strip paint off of anything, damage plastics and rubber, as
well as cause pitting to aluminum over time and, therefore, should not be
used for engine cleaning. Foaming engine cleaners, such as Gunk, are
made specifically for cleaning engine bays and are a far better/safer
choice. Leave the oven cleaner in the kitchen, where it belongs. |
|
Engine swaps |
| Yes.
Click
here for compatibility information and
click here
for the great What Should I Swap In?! debate.
The table
below is under construction.
|
Existing Engine |
Swapping To |
Fuel System /
Engine Management |
Parts Required |
Notes |
|
1.6L/1.7L/1.8L, 8v |
1.8L, 8v
JH |
CIS
 CIS |
Engine
(fuel pumps, fuel distributor if replacing
1.5-1.7L) |
Straight swap into any year
CIS Cabriolet. |
|
1.8L, 8v
JH |
1.8L, 8v
2H |
CIS
Digifant
/
OBD I
(Digifant I only) |
Complete engine
Wiring
ECU
Fuel pumps
Fuel filter |
Not a straight swap due to
the fuel injection systems. |
|
1.8L, 8v
2H |
1.8L, 8v
2H |
Digifant /
OBD I
(Digifant I only) |
Engine |
Straight swap into any year
2H Cabriolet. |
|
1.8L, 8v
2H |
1.8L, 8v
JH |
Digifant
CIS
/
OBD I
(Digifant I only) |
Complete engine
Wiring
Jetronic ECU
Fuel pumps
Fuel filter |
Not a straight swap due to
the fuel injection systems. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
1.8L, 8v
JH |
1.8L, 16v |
CIS |
Complete engine
Larger (stock) air flow
sensor
16v pressure plate
Splice motor's wiring
harness
into existing harness |
WUR/CPR mounts to driver's
side of 16v's cylinder head.
Runs better with CIS-E.
Scirocco 16v system is
best; straight swap. A2-based 16v systems will require custom exhaust
down-pipe and relocation of fuel lines to passenger side or use of
Scirocco in-take. |
|
1.8L, 8v
JH |
1.8L, 16v |
Digifant II |
Complete engine
16v pressure plate
Splice motor's wiring
harness
into existing harness |
Scirocco 16v system is
best; straight swap. A2-based 16v systems will require custom exhaust
down-pipe and relocation of fuel lines to passenger side or use of
Scirocco in-take. |
|
1.8L, 8v
JH |
1.8L, 16v |
CIS-E |
Complete engine
Fuel distributor
Fuel pressure regulator
Fuel rail, engine sensors
ECU
Knock box
Wiring harness
16v pressure plate
Splice motor's wiring
harness
into existing harness |
Scirocco 16v system is
best; straight swap. A2-based 16v systems will require custom exhaust
down-pipe and relocation of fuel lines to passenger side or use of
Scirocco in-take. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
1.8L, 8v
JH |
2.0L, 16v |
CIS |
Complete engine
Larger (stock) air flow
sensor
16v pressure plate
Splice motor's wiring
harness
into existing harness |
WUR/CPR mounts to driver's
side of 16v's cylinder head. Runs better with CIS-E. |
|
1.8L, 8v
JH |
2.0L, 16v |
Digifant II |
Complete engine
16v pressure plate
Splice motor's wiring
harness
into existing harness |
|
|
1.8L, 8v
JH |
2.0L, 16v |
CIS-E |
Complete engine
Fuel distributor
Fuel pressure regulator
Fuel rail
Engine sensors
ECU
Knock box
Wiring harness
16v pressure plate
Splice motor's wiring
harness
into existing harness |
|
|
1.8L, 8v
JH |
2.0L, 16v
ABA |
Motronic /
OBD I |
Block: OBD1
ABA
Crank: OBD1 ABA
Crank Bearings: ABA
Connecting Rods: OBD1 ABA
Pistons: 2.0L 16v
Rod Bearings: ????
Head: 1.8L 16v or 2.0L 16v
Oil Pan: ABA
Head gasket: ABA or 2.0L 16v
Throttle Body: G60 or Automatic 16v
Intake Manifold: 1.8L 16v or 2.0L 16v
Timing Belt: Eurosport ABA 16v
Idler/Tensioner Pulley: 9A 2.0L 16v
Oil Pump: 2.0L 16v
Oil Pump Drive: 2.0L 16v
Water Pump: 2.0L 16v
Water Pump Pulley: 2.0L 16v
Crank Pulley: 2.0L 16v
Alternator: 2.0L 16v
Alternator Pulley: 2.0L 16v
Alternator Belt: 2.0L 16v
Intermediate Shaft: 2.0L 16v
Fuel Pump: CIS
Fuel Filter: CIS
Fuel Pressure Reg.: G60
Spark Plugs & Wires: 16v
Distributor: 16v
Distributor Block Off: TT block-off plate |
Optional
Parts:
For High Boost Forced Induction: ABA
pistons/ABA Rods
For Mild Boost Forced Induction: 9A pistons/ABA Rods
For High Compression: ABF Pistons/ABA Rods
For Stroker: 9A Pistons/TDI Crank
If you're wanting to run MK3 accessories:
Mk3 tensioner bracket
Mk3 alternator
ABA crank pulley, machined down
Non Power Steering Kit
Power Steering Kit |
|
1.8L, 8v |
VR6 |
Motronic /
OBD I |
Complete engine
Transmission
CE2 wiring harness
Stiffer front suspension
Custom intake & exhaust
Tach adapter
Bigger brakes
100mm drive shafts/hubs
Relocate battery to trunk |
Will require custom
fabrication of front sub-frames and all motor mounts.
Oil pan will sit low to the
ground; lowering suspension not recommended for daily drivers.
This swap is do-able, but not recommended,
especially for first-time DIYers. |
|
wtopw
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